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Introduction to Madrid Guide

In Madrid the work worth going to see is happening inside rooms that were already standing.

Introduction to Madrid Guide
Photography

Acid Shop sold gemstones before Plantea Estudio made it a café. That exchange, one use replacing another behind a door that was already there, is what we keep finding in Madrid. The work arrives as rooms rather than as buildings, on streets too narrow for a delivery van, and the room usually has a till in it: bread, coffee, flowers, books, medicine, an hour in hot water.

The briefs are small and commercial, and we think that is the interesting part rather than the limit. Alblanc Atelier took an empty storefront in Justicia and put a flower shop inside it with no partitions, so the room behaves like a garden pavilion that happens to have a till. On the narrow San Mateo Street, Lawrence Bookshop sells artists' books from birch plywood plinths that hold artworks at the same time. What do you call a room that sells you a thing and shows you a thing from the same surface?

Plantea Estudio recurs often enough that we stopped calling it coincidence. Their rooms are warm and restrained in equal measure, and that turns out to be a fair way into the city’s manner generally. Alma Nomad is a café doing almost nothing loudly. FUBA Bakery by Isern Serra, in Chamberí, was conceived by a chef rather than by a retailer, and Dr.You by BURR Studio treats an apothecary as a place to slow down. A few streets over, Espacio DIIR opens a working studio to the public around one monumental table, while SOLO CSV Art Space by Estudio Herreros refuses to settle on a shape.

Then Riela, on Calle de Apodaca, which Oficina Satélite staged as a descent: street light at the top, water and vapour at the bottom. The name comes from rielar, a Spanish verb for the shimmer of moonlight on water. It is the one programme here where the customer is asked to stay rather than to buy and leave.

Then there are the buildings that go the other way, and go hard. CaixaForum Madrid, on the Paseo del Prado, is an industrial relic that Herzog and de Meuron lifted until it appears to hover above its own site. The Royal Collections Museum by Mansilla and Tuñón does the reverse and buries a museum under the Royal Palace. Barceló Market by Nieto Sobejano presses a market, a sports hall and a library into one block behind white opaline cast glass. Is a city read better through its monuments or through the shop that changed hands last spring? We are not sure, which is why the guide carries both.

A conversion is not a rescue. Every room here was emptied out for somebody, and every one of them will be emptied again.

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Madrid Guide
15+ Projects
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Apple/Google Maps
architecture
museum
art
Architecture in Madrid — sunlit courtyards, ceramic facades, and interiors of spare elegance. A city where modernism arrived late and stayed long, producing cultural institutions, apartment renovations, and restaurants designed with the same precision as museums.
Population: 
3.5M
Cost of Espresso: 
€2
Time Zone: 
CET
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