A/W 2012-2013 by Damir Doma
Somewhere, someone is waiting for you. A restless soul charting unknown territory, burning with intrigue. Escaping the mundane, he answers the call of the wild in swathes of rich cloth – a patchwork of memory and myth, a techno-bohemian spirit. The hero dances to the beat of his own drum.
An aura of decadence floats over the season’s silhouette, suffused with dense texture and tone. Colours whisper the glory of a forgotten age in dusty shades of russet and wine, bone and green jasper. A pale story of variegated stripes in tonal linen lends a passage of light, paring down the kaleidoscope of deep, patterned hues that define the season.
Tailored jackets feature soft scarf collars or a sliced lapel, with a new wide sleeve (buttoned-in at the cuff). Ethnic-inspired trousers are cut full in the leg and hit the ankle with a wide cuff. Tiered trenches, ponchos and a floor-sweeping duster coat are rendered in woolen tapestry fabrics, finished with papery leather patches and antiqued zips. The precision of fine leather piping along hems and pockets contrasts laddered knitwear and distressed blanket wools.
Raccoon and muskrat furs are crafted into opulent gilets laid over suits in thick ikat and jacquard. An ornate fleur-de-lys print decorates nehru shirts and rollneck tees. Ropes of wooden beads are strung across the torso as a reverent ornament, at times complemented by armoured belts of polished horn. High rumpled boots in soft calf and a buckle-heel derby both meld function with a pastoral elegance. A finale of jewel-toned kimono shirts resounds with a quiet joy. The effect is triumphant.